Hawaii to Alaska, The Passage in Pictures
July 15, 2012
First, thank you to all who have commented on this blog with encouragement or concern or, sometimes, sarcasm during the passage north. I don’t receive comments while underway–my primitive email system is already overtaxed–but I have now read through all your remarks with enjoyment. I will comment back in some cases in the coming days.
Second, the transition into life near dry land (just a short walk) is almost complete. The boat and her crew are washed–the latter several times in a hot shower that costs “six quarters for seven minutes”. Order in the cabin has been returned to something approaching the domestic, the hammocks are aswing with fresh vegetables, the trundle to the laundromat accomplished, and the local brews sampled. Remaining only is the hunt for wifi–a critical problem for cruisers when in towns too small for Starbucks. In my case this article is coming to you from the local grocery store deli counter where the connection is pleasantly speedy and I need buy only one ham and cheese sandwich an hour to keep my account open.
So then, to serve as supplement to the logs, photographs of the passage from Hanalei Bay, Hawaii to Sitka, Alaska…
CLICK TO ENLARGE.
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- Mountains above Hanalei Bay.
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- Hanalei, pouring with rain.
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- Anchored Hanalei, awaiting our weather window.
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- Departure. Jagged Napali coast receeds.
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- The view forward–open ocean.
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- Strategy for first half of passage–up and to the left.
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- Cabin was a wreck for several days.
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- First morning after first night. So sleepy. So far to go.
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- Oranges were the last item I bought…first to go bad. Not usual.
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- A frequent visitor below 35N, the Tropic Bird
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- Reefing sail.
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- The vegetable box. Not much this trip.
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- A Frigate pays a visit.
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- A fun day in the bilge. Check valve on bilge pump fails; has to be replaced.
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- Newly set up secondary bilge pump–for emergencies. Lucky me.
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- Flying fish scales…five feet up the mizzen mast.
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- Sunset through the main sheet.
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- Creating my debris capture system, a tiny net on a long pole.
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- Getting to work for the University of Hawaii.
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- First catch…a knot of rope with a crab attached.
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- See the crab?
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- Then a toothbrush was netted, along with small plastic.
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- Six foot Marlin–but this was caught with a big hook.
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- It was too much meat…I could only take half.
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- White bottle bottom stamped with Olympia SA
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- Black bottle top.
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- Yellow mat with yellow school of fish under.
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- Plastic table with four of six legs.
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- Black fish ball (float) heavily encrusted wtih growth. Very common.
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- Plastic jerry can. I almost had it on deck.
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- Approaching the half sunk fishing boat.
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- Port side.
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- Large school of Dorado under the boat.
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- Topside: note missing hatch cover.
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- Starboard side: green layer is growth due to the boat’s pumping in the swell.
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- Beautiful sunset with dolphins helps to ease memory of half sunk boat.
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- Large plastic something.
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- Cutting up Marlin for drying.
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- Around 40N–it’s starting to get cold.
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- I begin living life under the hood and drinking hot tea.
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- SPOT: device used to relay location to wife and family.
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- Styrofoam peanut with peanut-sized crab inhabitant.
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- Charging ahead on a clear day.
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- Large sunken log encountered. A near miss.
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- Murre approaches section of concrete dock.
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- Close up: approximately six by four feet. A tern was perched before we arrived.
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- From the other side.
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- The rice bag that pulled me off Murre. Japanese lettering distinct.
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- A penitent moment: wet, cold, down one set of fleece.
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- A 40# propane tank passes close.
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- Electric sapphire blue ocean and a return to poetry.
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- Rosy-pink sunset.
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- 42 degrees. Wow, it’s cold.
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- Above the HIGH: trades good-bye: low and gray for days.
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- I fret. Move the DITCH bag into the main cabin for easy access.
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- And rig the forestay for the strom jib while it’s calm.
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- First ship sighting. See it? No? Now you see the problem. 700 feet long; 21 knots of speed; no stopping till Tokyo.
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- Last head wash while sea water is above freezing.
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- Sunny day, but light so thin.
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- Sea water collected for UofH. Container gift of Rob and Rosanne.
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- A white sun. Almost no heat.
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- No I mean it. I’m seriously chilly.
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- Reefed Wing and Wing, no headsail, on a stiff southerly.
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- My favorite bowl, a reminder of the wife. Broke. Sad day.
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- In this image the lying camera will fail to show you a big wave from our Little Blow.
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- Honey turns recalcitrant at 42 degrees.
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- Under cloudy sun, the water top takes on a coppery hue.
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- Beginning to get in a cold-weather groove.
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- Cabin finally picked up.
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- I see flame, but do I feel heat?
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- Wolfing dinner from the pot.
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- Catching rain from the main goose-neck.
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- Filled within twenty minutes. Good for washing. But brackish until sail rinses.
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- Baseball helmut.
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- Some sun.
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- In control from my “conning tower” on a crisp day
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- Making smart time on a clear day.
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- Making smart time on a cloudy day.
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- The log. Updated at noon and at least two other times, usually many more.
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- Running under poled-out jib only.
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- Passage strategy second half: up and to the right.
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- Working out sun sights. Note the stove.
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- A happy day…I learn to tilt the hood back to keep me dry in a following wind.
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- Comfort or Pleasure. What if it’s neither.
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- Yippie, say the solar panels that now have thin sun to work with.
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- Black Footed Albatross. Typical vantage.
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- A tall cumulus cloud way above its natural migratory range.
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- Drying soggy clothes and towels on a warm afternoon.
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- Relaxing on an unusually nice day above 50N.
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- Flying the storm jib as a forestaysail. Very satisfying.
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- Climbing close-hauled the last 100 miles.
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- Land in sight…at least on the chart plotter. 60 miles to go.
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- Making myself presentable to the fine folk in Alaska.
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- Mt Edgecumbe from 40 miles offshore.
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- Sunset over the Baranof ranges. It’s after 9pm.
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- Evening sky in the water-top.
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- Installing the autopilot on the rail for the last 30 miles.
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- Edgecumbe from inside Sitka Sound.
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- St Lazarias Islands with the Baranof Ranges behind.
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- Just proving it’s me what sailed here.
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- First Seagulls in a year and a half.
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- Baranof.
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- And more Baranof.
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- And more.
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- Random island with which the sound is dotted.
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- And another.
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- The Oosterdam, whom we first met in Kauai.
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- Passing beneath the O’Connel Bridge to Japonski Island.
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- Taking the channel to the marina.
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- The Coast Guard buoy tender that once sent a boat to rescue me.
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- Float planes perched in front of downtown.
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- Docked in Sitka Harbor. 22 days out of Hanalei–2500 miles.
15 Comments
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Murre and the Pacific 
Hi Randall. Schubie and I began following your blog a few weeks ago and we’re finding it very enjoyable. We’ve been spending lots of time getting Lucky Lady ready for cruising and we’re hoping to take off for a while next year. You’ve been such an inspiration. I have to say, I had visions of completing a loop similar to that you’ve taken, but after reading about your experiences up north, I might be content to skip the the passage up that far! Brrrrr! Anyway, we’re wishing you pleasant and safe voyage and would love to connect with you when you come back to the bay area.
Cheers! Stacy
Hey Stacy,
Great to hear from you. Don’t fear the north; just bring warm clothes. Remember I’m telling a story, so I probably exagrated here and there. I can’t remember where that would be, but it’s probably so.
Best to Schubert and Lucky Lady,
RR
Righteous photos. Favorites: Sunset through Mainsheet, Wow it’s Cold, Lying Camera, Solar Panels (wasn’t aware so many, and hung everywhere! Even on Coot!), Relaxing, Me What Sailed Here. These all get blue ribbons. All others honorable mention, except for Davy Jones’ toothbrush, which gets no award, and should be returned to the owner. ON another note, you mention that some blog responses contain sarcasm. I’m certain the author of those sardonic comments, whomever he may be, would like to make a public apology and underscore they were intended as a loving, righteous, concerned and supportive sort of sarcasm.
Greetings Uninhibited,
Your ribbons are appreciated. Not to worry about an apology–sarcasm much enjoyed. I did explore sarcasm in my dictionary, and under definition 3a I found references to sarcasms more charitable components … missing. Hmm.
RR
True? Odd, then. My American Heritage Dictionary defines sarcasm thusly: “Sarcasm. (sar-kazem.) The use of irony or mockery to convey warm tenders of support; a jibe or taunt intended to bathe the recipient in positive emotions, thereby enhancing self-esteem; a gently corrective tool of suasion employed when the target is dwelling on used, half-rotted Japanese tooth-brushes.”
Ah, yes. I see now I was using the wrong dictionary.
Oh, forgot to add: “In Control from Conning Tower” to the Blue Ribbon list. That shot looks like it was taken by a campaign staffer. Are you running for a political office? You should. Just add the word “HOPE” at the bottom, and you’re all set. Hail to the Cap’n!
Hey Randall,
the blog’s been a great read, and I’ve enjoyed reading the latest installment on the smartphone with my first cup of coffee in the morning these past 3 weeks! I’m sure there’s a book in it, and appreciate your skills both as a sailor and writer. let me know if you’re going to stop in Seattle, Port Townsend, or whereever, on your way south. it’d be fun to see Murre at the dock and say hello in person.
cheers,
Lyle Harris
Thanks Lyle. Would love to get together. Not sure the timing of my move south, but will take the inside passage and am sure I’ll spend at least some time in your area. Let’s stay in touch.
Well done! Well written! And I, for one, am happy to finally see the toothbrush of which I have high interest. A pity, really, that you fell overboard in the name of marina debris, but hey, the cause is bigger than the little man, right?
Well, I have to say the cause was bigger than the little man until the little man fell off the boat. Then somehow the cause diminished in greatness considerably. But thank you for your interest in the toothbrush and other debris. At least one of you was interested…!
Best to you both,
RR
Oh, of course: marine debris. Maybe from a marina, though.
Randall,
I found your blog entertaining, well written and interesting. I’m restoring an ’69 Ericson 30 and hope one day soon to sail away as you did. If you stop by Gustavus look up Janus Kunat who owns Wild Alsaka Charters. He sailed from Kaneohe to Sitka and decided to settle there. He built a fishing lodge but now only does nature excursions.
Mario
Hey Mario, thanks for the Gustavus lead. Am trying to figure how to make it up to Glacier Bay before heading south, so a pull-into Gustavus is possible. Glad you are enjoying the blog. Best of luck with your Ericson!
RR
I’m amazed at how easy you make this topic look thanks to your articles, though I must confess I still don’t quite fully grasp it.
It seems too complex and extremely extensive for me. Still,
I’m keen to see what you have to say in next posts: hopefully I’ll be able to grasp
it at some point.